Passadoc Gazette – No 124

The Hebdo 124

The cookbook...

It does not coincide with travel accounts, serious novels, or police puzzles; It does not appear on the varnished shelves of living room libraries... No, stuck between the pots or placed on the towel pile, he has his domain, his place: the kitchen!

And yet, he tells beautiful stories! Those of the regions with local specialities, those of the families... So, on page 37, here's Mamzette's blanquette! Every Sunday noon, it scented the house... And on page 64, it's Papet's bayoli! Little nostalgia... And we're still salivating just to read the recipe again.

Cookbooks appear in XIIIe Century (Middle Age). As such, they are found only in bourgeois or even noble families. They are expensive and mostly the humble cannot read. Cardboard covers, pages illustrated with feathered drawings, are spoken of as fatty broths, dodus chapons, made-up game.

A few centuries later, they are accessible to all. For a few francs, we acquire:

– Kitchen for the use of Households, Baron Brisse, born in Gémenos [1813-1876], one of the first culinary journalists. His friend Theodore from Banville said he was big, happy, smiling, big as a muid and fat like a monk !

– My KitchenAuguste Escoffier, born in Villeneuve-Loubet [1846-1935].
The first edition of Culinary Guide appeared in 1903; He will become the bible of cooks. Many times re-edited and translated into more than ten languages.

Today, it would sell some 17 million pounds of food in France! Maybe they're threatened by those we find online...

– If you're not capable of a little witchcraft, you don't have to mix with the kitchen., written Colette – novelist, writer of the intimate – who is passionate about cooking. She left many gourmet recipes to which she gives Additional soul, flavors, smells and humor, recipes that she accompanies with her favorite wines, because she has grown, matured, aged in the familiarity of wine.

Still traveler, Giono Little left his hills. Gourmet writer, He was very successful with the sauerkraut, tells her daughter Sylvie who adds: Not the Alsatian, the one he invented, perfumed with good wine and spices.

– Where is our cookbook?

Patience... he arrives after this last quote* de Frédérique Deghelt, young novelist born in Bordeaux:
If I had been able to reveal my love for books and not hide them, which forced me to possess only two or three books, I would have put the library in the kitchen. So much for the fat on the pages. I would have opened novels after a few years that would have had different fragrances. Rosemary for Maupassant, curry for Baudelaire, onions for... Ah that I would have liked that, a huge kitchen library!

Jeanne Monin

Research on many sites.

My little girls will inherit my precious original edition of « The Provencal Cook » by J.-B. Reboul, edited by Tacussel in Marseilles and printed by Macaret in Vaison-la-Romane, to be precise.
 
It is easy to find this book in bookstores. It has been reissued many times.
 
The recipe I prefer of this precious book, only reading, is « double fat with Provencal » which combines lard, small salty with a kilo of double fat, all decorated with a crushed clove of garlic.
 
We are far from Cretan diet and fashionable dietetics!
 
I offer this book because the desire to cook completely abandoned.
There may be exceptions. Last year in Catalonia, I cooked civelles, these eel fry not found in France... or at an unaffordable price.
 
André Abbe
  • The Echoes of the Week
    The Provencal cook
    The Viso
    Valerian!
    Horses in Dantan
    Provencal in high school
    Transhumance
  • Readers' Mail

The Provencal cook

A book also owned by Régine Soyris... Marie-Jo Guiol... Christiane Borio Thomas... Volpe Volpe... Charlette Ollivier Carlac... Jean-Pierre Violino...

Giselle Penat-Lorde

A few years ago, I had a very old edition of my paternal grandmother, (the original edition elsewhere) annotated, with inside piles of recipes written by her hand on notebook sheets, remarks, a veritable cookbook. A Bible marked by the years, whose pages had finally become detached...
 
And I still have Mom's one in a slightly more recent edition in better condition... but also filled with annotations, loose leaves, including a lot of recipes from my grandmother who migrated from one pound to the next.
 
Unsurpassable and irreplaceable.
 
One memory by calling another: an edition that my grandmother, Amélie PENAT, had.
She was a fashion designer and sewn a black, solid fabric blanket in a drop of fabric.
 
Many « precious books » (dictionaries, atlases and various) were moreover covered with the same black fabric in the family! I still have old language dictionaries covered similarly but with a nice tiled fabric, vestige of a schoolgirl apron... and the famous Latin-French Gaffiot – who still attended college – was part of the prize « tile apron » Also...
This protection has ensured them more than a long life...
 
O tempora, o mores ...
 
Jean-Paul Dubroca
...must have it: my learning master was Jacques Reboul, J.B.'s nephew in Toulon, so J.B.'s brother, very great leader too. He had « The Rooster in Pasta« , a Toulouse institution at the time.

The Viso

Photo A. Abbe

Emerging from the clouds, this is Mount Viso (3,841 m) – one of the highest peaks of the Italian Alps – seen from the village of Ostana in the upper valley of Po which takes its source at its feet.

His name comes from Vesulus, « visible ». In fact, on the Italian side, its majestic and imposing pyramid seems to emerge from nowhere, making its silhouette visible and easily recognizable over a long distance.

Its summit is in Italy (Cuneo province) but its western part belongs to Queyras (High Alps).

On both sides is spoken the vivaro-alpin dialect of the occitan.

André Abbe

Valerian!

 
For months, he was present on Passadoc! Smileing, inventive, he animated the site!
 
About two weeks ago, Valerian was in Paris, Quai Saint-Bernard. He danced to the sound of an accordion... A violin... a bagpipe...
 
 
Claude Boyer
I'm glad to see Valerian again... A very nice boy whose memory I keep.


Nadine Berenguier
Absolutely true what all these people say. I did a lot of traditional dance in different places, and it's really a very nice and open environment.

The horses of old...

1984... beautiful picture! A. Abbe

In 2008, I followed the recommendations of Mrs Voynet, Minister of Ecology, by purchasing a diesel-powered car. It was well known, diesel emitted less CO2 than gasoline at the time.

Everything has changed. In a short time, I won't be able to enter the cities with my car for the break. The diesel is cursed. I'll have the train left to go to my son's.

For my local travels, a horse might be enough. I've got enough to keep him at home. I have a meadow and a stable for him.

It is a question of banning cows (I am not kidding) but horses should be spared because they do not ruminate and thus pollute less the atmosphere.

André Abbe

Provencal in high school

Image Claude Boyer
Tuesday, June 6 – High School of Val d'Argens du Muy
 
Hosted by Professor Martron of Provençal, André Abbe told the students for more than an hour about his career as a journalist, photographer and radioman, as well as his travels in France. « backpack mode » on all continents of the planet.
 
On the video: Claude Boyer Hey! A few minutes on Mestre Andrieu's speech.
 

Transhumance

The time for departure in transhumance has arrived.

Every year we talk about it, it's a « Brownberry* » For Passadoc! But every year we address a new aspect of the subject.

This time, let's do it: we need to know the exact number of animals going to the mountains. I tried more than once to count at the same time as the shepherd and every time I screwed myself!
At the time of return, the account will again be made in the mountains to know the number of missing sheep, victims of accidents. It's rare that none of us miss...
Since the wolf returned to Mercantour in 1992, there have been more absences in autumn.

In the photo that dates back about thirty years, we see Bernard Bellini concentrated at the exit of the park.

*In the journalistic slang, the Brownberry is an article or report that returns cyclically.

In May, « Gazette No. 121« We were talking about the bouillabaisse. Guy Bouyer writes:

« In 1891, in a plaque offered to members of « The French Association for the Advancement of Science »Jean-André Ortolan seriously recounts that the bouillabaisse was invented and baptized at Saint-Raphaël by a fisherman named Conradi.

Forced to release in a deserted corner, this brilliant inventor had to feed his men with the food on the edge; After wetting his white wine fish, which is hardly orthodox, and after adding seasoning, he charged a mousse to watch the soup and, giving him a small stick, instructed him to call when the ball would have dropped to the mark he had made.

At the proper time, the foam began to scream:

– Come quickly, the baisso, soto the marquo d'ou bastoum!

Thus the famous name of bouillabaisse would have been given to this delicious fish soup ». (extract from the work of Marcel Carlini, Saint-Raphaël through the ages, published in 1981).

  • Writing Passadoc – Participants included:
    André Abbe
    Nadine Berenguier
    Claude Boyer
    Guy Bouyer
    Jean-Paul Dubroca
    Jeanne Monin
    Giselle Penat-Lorde
  • Layout
    Jeanne Monin

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