Passadoc Gazette – No 124

The Hebdo 124

The cookbook...

It does not coincide with travel accounts, serious novels, or police puzzles; It does not appear on the varnished shelves of living room libraries... No, stuck between the pots or placed on the towel pile, he has his domain, his place: the kitchen!

And yet, he tells beautiful stories! Those of the regions with local specialities, those of the families... So, on page 37, here's Mamzette's blanquette! Every Sunday noon, it scented the house... And on page 64, it's Papet's bayoli! Little nostalgia... And we're still salivating just to read the recipe again.

Cookbooks appear in XIIIe Century (Middle Age). As such, they are found only in bourgeois or even noble families. They are expensive and mostly the humble cannot read. Cardboard covers, pages illustrated with feathered drawings, are spoken of as fatty broths, dodus chapons, made-up game.

A few centuries later, they are accessible to all. For a few francs, we acquire:

– Kitchen for the use of Households, Baron Brisse, born in Gémenos [1813-1876], one of the first culinary journalists. His friend Theodore from Banville said he was big, happy, smiling, big as a muid and fat like a monk !

– My KitchenAuguste Escoffier, born in Villeneuve-Loubet [1846-1935].
The first edition of Culinary Guide appeared in 1903; He will become the bible of cooks. Many times re-edited and translated into more than ten languages.

Today, it would sell some 17 million pounds of food in France! Maybe they're threatened by those we find online...

– If you're not capable of a little witchcraft, you don't have to mix with the kitchen., written Colette – novelist, writer of the intimate – who is passionate about cooking. She left many gourmet recipes to which she gives Additional soul, flavors, smells and humor, recipes that she accompanies with her favorite wines, because she has grown, matured, aged in the familiarity of wine.

Still traveler, Giono Little left his hills. Gourmet writer, He was very successful with the sauerkraut, tells her daughter Sylvie who adds: Not the Alsatian, the one he invented, perfumed with good wine and spices.

– Where is our cookbook?

Patience... he arrives after this last quote* de Frédérique Deghelt, young novelist born in Bordeaux:
If I had been able to reveal my love for books and not hide them, which forced me to possess only two or three books, I would have put the library in the kitchen. So much for the fat on the pages. I would have opened novels after a few years that would have had different fragrances. Rosemary for Maupassant, curry for Baudelaire, onions for... Ah that I would have liked that, a huge kitchen library!

Jeanne Monin

Research on many sites.

My little girls will inherit my precious original edition of « The Provencal Cook » by J.-B. Reboul, edited by Tacussel in Marseilles and printed by Macaret in Vaison-la-Romane, to be precise.
 
It is easy to find this book in bookstores. It has been reissued many times.
 
The recipe I prefer of this precious book, only reading, is « double fat with Provencal » which combines lard, small salty with a kilo of double fat, all decorated with a crushed clove of garlic.
 
We are far from Cretan diet and fashionable dietetics!
 
I offer this book because the desire to cook completely abandoned.
There may be exceptions. Last year in Catalonia, I cooked civelles, these eel fry not found in France... or at an unaffordable price.
 
André Abbe
  • The Echoes of the Week
    The Provencal cook
    The Viso
    Valerian!
    Horses in Dantan
    Provencal in high school
    Transhumance
  • Readers' Mail

The Provencal cook

A book also owned by Régine Soyris... Marie-Jo Guiol... Christiane Borio Thomas... Volpe Volpe... Charlette Ollivier Carlac... Jean-Pierre Violino...

Giselle Penat-Lorde

A few years ago, I had a very old edition of my paternal grandmother, (the original edition elsewhere) annotated, with inside piles of recipes written by her hand on notebook sheets, remarks, a veritable cookbook. A Bible marked by the years, whose pages had finally become detached...
 
And I still have Mom's one in a slightly more recent edition in better condition... but also filled with annotations, loose leaves, including a lot of recipes from my grandmother who migrated from one pound to the next.
 
Unsurpassable and irreplaceable.
 
One memory by calling another: an edition that my grandmother, Amélie PENAT, had.
She was a fashion designer and sewn a black, solid fabric blanket in a drop of fabric.
 
Many « precious books » (dictionaries, atlases and various) were moreover covered with the same black fabric in the family! I still have old language dictionaries covered similarly but with a nice tiled fabric, vestige of a schoolgirl apron... and the famous Latin-French Gaffiot – who still attended college – was part of the prize « tile apron » Also...
This protection has ensured them more than a long life...
 
O tempora, o mores ...
 
Jean-Paul Dubroca
...must have it: my learning master was Jacques Reboul, J.B.'s nephew in Toulon, so J.B.'s brother, very great leader too. He had « The Rooster in Pasta« , a Toulouse institution at the time.

The Viso

Photo A. Abbe

Emerging from the clouds, this is Mount Viso (3,841 m) – one of the highest peaks of the Italian Alps – seen from the village of Ostana in the upper valley of Po which takes its source at its feet.

His name comes from Vesulus, « visible ». In fact, on the Italian side, its majestic and imposing pyramid seems to emerge from nowhere, making its silhouette visible and easily recognizable over a long distance.

Its summit is in Italy (Cuneo province) but its western part belongs to Queyras (High Alps).

On both sides is spoken the vivaro-alpin dialect of the occitan.

André Abbe

Valerian!

 
For months, he was present on Passadoc! Smileing, inventive, he animated the site!
 
About two weeks ago, Valerian was in Paris, Quai Saint-Bernard. He danced to the sound of an accordion... A violin... a bagpipe...
 
 
Claude Boyer
I'm glad to see Valerian again... A very nice boy whose memory I keep.


Nadine Berenguier
Absolutely true what all these people say. I did a lot of traditional dance in different places, and it's really a very nice and open environment.

The horses of old...

1984... beautiful picture! A. Abbe

In 2008, I followed the recommendations of Mrs Voynet, Minister of Ecology, by purchasing a diesel-powered car. It was well known, diesel emitted less CO2 than gasoline at the time.

Everything has changed. In a short time, I won't be able to enter the cities with my car for the break. The diesel is cursed. I'll have the train left to go to my son's.

For my local travels, a horse might be enough. I've got enough to keep him at home. I have a meadow and a stable for him.

Il est question d’interdire les vaches (je ne plaisante pas) mais les chevaux devraient être épargnés car ils ne ruminent pas et de ce fait polluent moins l’atmosphère.

André Abbe

Provencal in high school

Image Claude Boyer
Mardi 6 juin – Lycée du Val d’Argens du Muy
 
Accueilli par M. Martron, professeur de Provençal, André Abbe a raconté pendant plus d’une heure aux élèves sa carrière de journaliste, photographe et homme de radio, ainsi que ses voyages en « mode routard » sur tous les continents de la planète.
 
À la vidéo : Claude Boyer ! Quelques minutes sur l’intervention de Mestre Andrieu.
 

Transhumance

Le temps du départ en transhumance est arrivé.

Chaque année nous en parlons, c’est un « marronnier* » pour Passadoc ! Mais chaque année nous abordons un aspect nouveau du sujet.

Cette fois, faisons le compte : il convient de connaître le nombre exact de bêtes qui vont en montagne. J’ai essayé plus d’une fois de compter en même temps que le berger et à chaque fois je me suis planté !
Au moment du retour, le compte sera à nouveau fait en montagne pour connaître le nombre de brebis manquantes, victimes d’accidents. Il est rare qu’aucune ne manque…
Depuis le retour du loup dans le Mercantour en 1992, les absences sont plus nombreuses l’automne venu.

Sur la photo qui date d’une trentaine d’années, nous voyons Bernard Bellini concentré à la sortie du parc.

*Dans l’argot journalistique, le marronnier est un article ou un reportage qui revient de façon cyclique.

En mai, dans « La Gazette – N° 121« , on racontait la bouillabaisse. Guy Bouyer writes:

« En 1891, dans une plaquette offerte aux membres de « l’Association Française pour l’Avancement des Sciences », Jean-André Ortolan raconte gravement que la bouillabaisse fut inventée et baptisée à Saint-Raphaël, par un pêcheur, nommé Conradi.

Obligé de relâcher dans un coin désert, ce génial inventeur dut nourrir ses hommes avec les vivres du bord ; après avoir mouillé son poisson de vin blanc, ce qui n’est guère orthodoxe, et après avoir ajouté l’assaisonnement, il chargea un mousse de surveiller la soupe et, lui donnant un petit bâton, lui enjoignit d’appeler quand la bouille aurait baissé jusqu’à la marque qu’il avait faite.

Au moment voulu, le mousse se mit à crier :

– Venez vite, la bouille baïsso, souto la marquo d’ou bastoum !

C’est ainsi que le célèbre nom de bouillabaisse aurait été donné à cette délicieuse soupe de poisson ». (extrait de l’ouvrage de Marcel Carlini, Saint-Raphaël à travers les âges, paru en 1981).

  • Writing Passadoc – Participants included:
    André Abbe
    Nadine Berenguier
    Claude Boyer
    Guy Bouyer
    Jean-Paul Dubroca
    Jeanne Monin
    Giselle Penat-Lorde
  • Layout
    Jeanne Monin

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